A slamming door is an energy problem: the door arrives at the frame with speed, and something has to absorb that energy — either the frame (bang), or a piece of rubber (silence). Here's the fix per door type, cheapest first.
Cabinet Doors & Drawers
The tap-tap-tap of cabinet doors is fixed with a small rubber bumper at each corner where the door meets the frame. Skip the stick-on dots that fall off — use push-in or screw-on cabinet bumpers that attach mechanically and last the life of the cabinet.
Interior Doors
A door that slams in drafts needs two things: a cushioned stop and less speed. Put a screw-on rubber bumper on the baseboard or wall where the handle strikes, and check the hinges — a door that swings closed on its own has a frame out of plumb; tightening the top hinge or adding a felt-free rubber shim under one hinge leaf usually tames it.
Sliding Glass & Patio Doors
Sliders slam at the end of their track where the factory stop wore out years ago. A solid rubber sliding door stop screwed into the track or jamb absorbs the arrival — the 1" x 1" size handles full patio sliders, the compact size handles glass shower doors.
Screen & Storm Doors
The signature crack of a screen door is the aluminum frame hitting the jamb. Adjust the pneumatic closer's speed screw first (most people never have), then add a rubber bumper at the latch-side contact point to soften what remains.
RV & Trailer Doors
Wind-flung RV entry doors and heavy trailer ramp doors hit hardest of all — use the purpose-made RV door stop guard and trailer ramp bumpers built for repeated hard impacts.
The pattern in every fix: don't fight the door's energy, absorb it. Solid rubber compresses, recovers, and outlasts foam and felt by years. Browse all rubber door stops & bumpers.